St. John, USVI
Amalia’s first vacation to “America’s Caribbean”, nevermind that the entire Caribbean is in the Americas (except for Cuba – that’s someplace between China and the USSR.) More importantly, the US Virgin Islands officially won the contest for “most exotic place we could get to in <8 hours without a passport for Amalia.” We were fortunate to spend time in both St. John and St. Thomas. We started off in St. John, which remains very much an idyllic tropical paradise. That said, everything has its ups and downs, so here’s my thought on the island.
Top 3.5 St. John’s experiences
3. Arriving at the Westin resort – We flew into St. Thomas and took the Westin ferry directly to the resort. This service is brilliant marketing. Not only does the boat provide a water-tour of the ruins and private estates that line the southeast side of St. Thomas, it also floats past some of the island’s most mediocre beaches. You then cross a short straight and into Great Cruz Bay. The bay is filled with small sailboats and widely brimmed with white sand
draped by palm trees, with tropically wooded hills rising behind them. Much of this scene is in fact the resort, with the residences hidden in the sloping forest. We were instantly convinced beyond all doubt that we had chosen the right place. If you haven’t already signed up for the Starwood Hotels (parent of Westin) credit card and loyalty program, this place alone is worth it.
2. Touring Virgin Islands National Park (brought to us by Jeep, the last great Chrysler automobile) – Two-thirds of St. John is preserved by the National Park Service, and as such there is a lot to see in the park, ranging from stone and brick remains of Danish sugar plantations to rustic nature trails. Beyond the individual sights, the broader experience of renting a jeep (nothing else fits) and navigating the slightly treachorous roads from fisherman’s harbours to the peaks of this oceanic mountain range is exhilerating.
1. Cinnaman Bay – this might be the perfect tropical beach. Parking is a short distance from the shore, with a sandy path leading through the rain forest to the beach proper. A few steps toward the ocean, and you could be on a deserted island. Small rocky cays interupt the straight blue horizon, and behind the forest think with palm trees entirely obscures the path.
The sand itself is silky smooth and remarkably clean. We setup camp under the shade of a palm tree at the back of the beach. Amalia relaxed in her baby sun tent, while Ren and I took turns storkling amid a reef that conveniently extends from the shore. After a long morning in the sun, we retired to a shady patio area where fresh mahi mahi was served from the grill.
0.5. Sailing tour - several touring companies offer sailing tours to see underwater caves and natural baths along the shores of St. John and neighboring cays. We didn’t do this since, disappointingly, Amalia has not yet leared to swim the minimum 600 feet (she has been properly chided), but this looks just fantastic.
Bottom 3 St. John experiences
998. Cruz bay – There is a lot of good food here, or so we’re told. Our brief time in town was marred by heat, humidity, and mediocre shopping. We did acquire a good and very hot bottle of hot sauce, but the town is probably best seen from inside one of its many restaurants.
999. Day 1 beach failure – Before we were in a good rhythm of when and how to deal with Amalia at the beach, there was a brief period of concern that taking a beach vacation was a very bad idea. This period consistented of (1) go to the beach, (2) endure screaming for 15-20 minutes, and (3) retreat from the beach. Thankfully we quickly overcame this and spend many quality hours in the sand.
1000. BBQ at the resort - The Westin is a fantastically well-run resort in all respects, except aparently the beach restaurant, where they managed to completely ruin a BBQ chicken and beef buffet. I didn’t think it was possible to not like BBQ, but they proved me wrong.


Amalia’s grandparents came to visit this week from Michigan – she’s been so spoiled with all of this family! 